ヘイゼル・フィンドレーさんのインスタグラム動画 - (ヘイゼル・フィンドレーInstagram)「Which do you prefer – the flowy effortless feeling even when it’s hard? Or the to-the-death effort burns where you could be off every move? I’ve spent a lot of time thinking about the psychological states underpinning optimal performance in climbing, mostly flow. However, I’ve long felt that focusing solely on flow is a bit of a mistake. To many, flow can feel like an elusive unicorn state that comes around every so often but isn’t something that permeates all climbing experiences. With training and practice we can access flow more frequently, but until you experience that, flow can feel a bit inaccessible. Flow is also characterised by a perception of effortlessness and automaticity which feels a far cry from those ‘a muerte’ try-hard attempts where you feel like you could be off at any second. These states are not ‘flowy’ but they can still underpin big sends and amazing experiences. This state has been described in the literature as ‘clutch’ but there is not enough research to know yet whether clutch is a useful model in sport psychology and climbing. I personally love to be in a state of supreme effort when climbing. And I also love those rich moments of flow. I think it’s better to think of it as a scale from being really distracted on one end to being in flow on the other with a bunch of worthwhile states in between. The further you can move your mind along that scale, the better you’ll perform. What’s truly strange to me is that most climbers, even professionals, don’t seem to engage much in performance psychology. You have the CEOs at big companies like Google and Nike taking courses in performance psychology but not climbers. Anyway, as you know one of my main missions is to help make performance psychology mainstream in climbing and I’m pleased to announce that Strong Mind is working on a performance course for climbers that we hope to launch next month, so keep an eye out for that 😊 Footage from a ‘clutch’ trip to Sweden with @madeleine_cope and @etteloc 🎥 for @blackdiamond a few years back 😊」5月1日 19時57分