ヘイゼル・フィンドレーさんのインスタグラム動画 - (ヘイゼル・フィンドレーInstagram)「I’ve been trying this route Olwen (E9) at Rhoscolyn a bit. It has a scary runout, falling on the last few metres of it would be pretty catastrophic. It’s not difficult climbing but the pump is building. Having done the route clean on top rope a few times I thought I’d get to the end of the runout with juice to spare. However, my mind wasn’t right and the conditions weren’t as good as I wanted them to be. The combination of being too tense and chalking up too much meant that I arrived at the crux too pumped and as you can see in the video I fell off. Luckily the crux is safe! There are a few different ways to approach head pointing. You either get a lot fitter and stronger than the climb, so you have room to climb it in a defensive, tense, controlled way. Or you learn how to climb well and manage the stress when the stakes are high. I’m usually pretty good at the latter but I’m clearly out of practice! Many people who have not tried headpointing (and are maybe scornful of it) think that you can control all the variables and break the challenge down completely. But the reality is that you never really know how your nervous system will react until you’re on lead. And it’s this unknown that makes it an interesting process especially when you really can’t fall. I imagine I’ll get back on lead at some point soon but I think I need to reassess my current skill level in regard to scary climbing and make sure that this route is an appropriate challenge level for me at the moment. With all the stresses that this year has brought I’m likely not on my A-game in terms of my mental fitness. All good learning though and although I came away without a send I’m psyched to be in a position where I was able to manage something this bold. @blackdiamond @lasportivagram @strongmind.climbing」7月6日 23時37分