ナショナルジオグラフィックのインスタグラム(natgeo) - 3月17日 02時27分

photo by @yuri.kozyrev | words by @neilshea13 — Friday, and by noon Kirkuk is dreaming. Flat white heat pushes through the crumbling neighborhoods, over the graves of the prophets, and into the mosque’s dim chambers where, now, it is time for the zikir. Musicians slip drums from their cases and begin striking out a rhythm. It rises, falls, repeats. Toom-toom, snap-snap, simple verses, Allah’s name. Above, on a balcony, boys press their faces to the rail and watch their fathers rise into rapture. Some men spin, arms out, palms up. Eyes shut. They twirl like pinwheels, like prayer wheels, while others remove headscarves and release bands of dark hair which they whip back and forth, God’s headbangers. This is one of the few places you will find them all—Arabs, Kurds, Turkmen, Sunni, Shia, Sufi. Together. Beyond anger and ashes. In prayer beyond words. And yet, some say this isn’t Islam. A few miles away, across the frontline, through no-man’s-land, in the charred villages, another Friday unfolds. Over there, ISIS fighters pray, too. No music. No mystery. The ancient dialogues crushed down into small mean rulebooks. It is said that, after prayers, the militants fight harder, but I wonder how long they can run on empty. Back in the mosque, the men are spent and the zikir is ending. In the center of the room an old dervish comes undone. He’s been spinning in bliss for an hour and his shirt is dark with sweat, his orbit erratic with fatigue. He stumbles. Begins to fall. A friend leaps forward and makes the catch and together they go softly to the floor. At my shoulder there is a sigh, and a boy, quite young, whispers God is great.
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This is the last post in a series from Iraqi Kurdistan, which follows our feature article in the March 2016 issue of @ナショナルジオグラフィック magazine. Join us @neilshea13 and @yuri.kozyrev for more from The Other Iraq, and find all of our posts from this series here: #theotheriraq2016
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