Instagramのインスタグラム(instagram) - 11月28日 23時26分

“What I love most about surfing is that it’s my first love,” says six-time surfing world champion Stephanie Gilmore (@ステファニー・ギルモア). “It’s the first thing I can remember being consumed by. Every time I go to the beach, it just feels right—like it’s where I should be.” Born and raised near Brisbane, Australia, where she still lives, Stephanie learned to surf the long point breaks of the Gold Coast. “When you grow up surfing, you learn to read the waves and the ocean,” she says. “You get that knowledge of what waves to take. For me it’s all about listening to my instincts.” This week Stephanie’s instincts were put to the test in Maui, Hawaii where she closed out her winning season and claimed her sixth world title. To follow Stephanie and see more behind-the-scenes photos of her life as a pro surfer, follow @ステファニー・ギルモア.

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